A cospoeatioh of i-iew



Sept. 17, 1929. w. MYERS AUTOMATIC EMBROIDERING MACHINE Filed Nov. 5, 1923 4 Sheets-Sheet ATTORNEY Sept. 17, 1929. w. MY ERS AUTOMATIC EMBROIDERING MACHINE Filed. Nov. 1925 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR Zzltr/fierr ATTORNEY NNN NN Sept. 17, 1929. w. MYERS AUTOMATIC EMBRO IDERING MACHINE Filed Nov. 5, 1925 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR Walter @629 ATTORNEY Sept; 17, 1929. w. MYERS AUTOMATIC EMBROIDERING momma Filed NOV. 5, 1923 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR Walter/ Zyerr BY ATTORNEY Patented Sept. 17, 1929 UNi'l Elllt WALTER MYERS, 0F BBIDG-EPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGIJOH FACTURING COMPANY, OF ELIZEBETX'L' NEW $35111.

JERSEY AUTOMATIC EMBROIDEBING IBIA Application filed. November 5, 1923.

This invention relates to improvements in universal-feed embroidering machines and more particularly in the type of embroidering machines well known in the art as the 5 Bonnaz machine, based upon the disclosure in the U. S. patent to A. Bonnaz, No. 83,910, Nov. 10, 1868.

The Bonnaz type of embroidering machine generally includes a universal-feed mechanism of which the direction of worle advancing action is controlled by a. handcrank and also a manually controlled stopmotion device for determining the period of operation of the stitch-forming mechanism. Modifications of this type of machine have heretofore been disclosed in which a patterncam was embodied in the machine for automatically determining the direction of feed, and automatic controlling devices for the stop-motion have also been added in certain instances for determining the period of operation of both the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms to produce an embroidery design predetermined by the pattern-cam and the operative connections therewith. Automatic machines of this character as heretofore constructed are, however, extremely limited as to the character of the product.

The present invention has for its primary object to provide a. pattern-cam controlled universal-feed embroidering machine capable of automatically producing a large variety of designs from each pattern-cam without requiring the services of a skilled operator.

Another object of this invention is to provide an automatic control of the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism independently of the period of operation of the feed-direction controlling mechanism whereby certain portions of the embroidery designed determined by the pattern-cam may be automatically omitted in the production of variations of the original design.

A further object of this invention is to provide a continuously effective automatic feeddirection control and an automatic intermittently effective control of the stop-motion device to both start and stop the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism.

a anu- This invention has for a still further object to provide adjustable means for varying the automatic action and inaction of the stopmotion device in a machine oi this character.

Other objects of the present invention will be apparent from the following description and claims.

diuieut of the invenments have been ap- "e i own winger universal teec in blue oi which the needle uieeliz-inisr are conin ilUQw f. with the ure in my pr; i U. ti. tent lilo. 033., oi Dec. li'i 9 19. in order to auto- .vlly cor t l i i-cani is 3on1 it. i

iQ-l'i" reciprocating shalt not sly rotated durj shalt regardless l .w u u a lfiwfll having a 1.1

clutched upon the us ettion determining shafh thereby automatically con tro ling the direction of teed.

in order to automatically control the action and inaction of the stitch-torini31g mechanism, the pahcra provided on its periphery with a plurality of adjustable studs arranged to at prei itermineil, nf rvals engage and shift a l teral arm of a rock ia'i t to cause a tappet a; movable w Ii PM shaft to automat-i ally (392 t ,rol me action of the usual stopuuoaon device provided in tlie Bonnaz embroidering machin T his stop-motion control serves to both st .t and stop the action of the stitch-torn out feeding mechanisms during the conti uance of the operation of the pattern-cam to control the direction of feed.

In the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1 is a front side elevation, partly in section, of an embroidering machine embodying the pres ent improvements. Fig. 2 is a perspective view, partly in section, of the pattern-cam actuating and stop-motion controlling connections viewed from the rear, the bracketarm of the machine being shown in dotted lines. Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the patterncam actuating adjustable eccentric. Fig. 4 is a perspective View of the elements of the adjustable eccentric of Fig. 3, shown in detached relationship. Fig. 5 is a detail perspective View of the detachable cover-plate of the arm-standard, in which is journaled the stop-motion controlling shaft. Fig. 6 is a sectional View of the pattern-cam and ratchet-wheel, together with their supporting means. Fig. 7 is a transverse section through the flange of the stop-motion controlling rock-shaft. Fig. 8 is a. transverse section through the bearing boss of the front coverplate. Fig. 9 is a detail view of the patterncam driving pulley-shaft gear. Fig. 10 is a detail view of the looper actuating eccentric. Figs. 11 to 15 inclusive are outline views of several embroidery designs produced from one pattern-cam. Figs. 16 and 17 are outline views produced from different pattern-cams. Figs. 18, 19 and 20 illustrate a few outline variations which may be produced from the pattern-cam designed to effect the outline of Fig. 16.

Referring to the drawings, the present improvements are shown as embodied in an em broidering machine having a cloth-plate base 1 from which rises the standard 2 of a tubular overhanging bracket-arm 3, terminating in a head 1. Journaled in suitable bearings provided in the standard 2 is the main or pulley shaft 5, carrying a belt-pulley 6 and counter-bored at its inner end to receive the reduced extremity 7 of a needle-actuating shaft 8. The shaft 8 is as usual provided at its forward end with an actuating crank (not shown) for Vertically reciprocating the needle-bar driver 9 operatively connected with the needle-bar 10, reciprocating within but constrained to rotate with a cylinder 11 ournaled for rotation in suitable bearings provided in the head 1. The needle-bar 10 carries at its lower end a hook-needle 12 which coacts below the work with a suitable looper (not shown) to draw loops of thread, directed to the looper from the supply-spool 13, through the work and enchain the same above the work. It is immaterial, however, for the purposes of the present invention, whether the thread is enchained above or below the work, or what is the particular type of stitch-forming mechanism employed.

A feeding foot 1 1 derives its feeding movements from a rotary cam 15 upon the shaft 8 through the intermediary of a lever 16 and a sliding sleeve 17 transmitting reciprocatory movements to the usual cam-sleeve 18 upon the cylinder 11. The rising and falling movements of the feeding foot 14 are derived from a rotary cam 19 upon the shaft 8 and are transmitted to the feeding foot by a lever 20. A work-holding nipple 21 is vertically reciprocated alternately with the feeding foot from the feeding foot lifting cam 19. No detailed description is herein presented of the needle-bar reciprocating connections or of the feed-actuating connections, inasmuch as the operative mechanism for these elements and its mode of operation in a Bonnaz machine are extremely well known and as the particular type employed in the present ma chine is fully shown and described in my prior Patent No. 1,325,033 hereinbefore referred to.

As is usual in machines of this class, the feeding foot 14; is supported for universal feeding movements in the plane of the clothplate 1, the direction of feed being controlled by rotating the cylinder 11 which carries a rectangular guide-block 22 slidingly engaged by a feed-collar 23 embraced by a feed-ring 24- upon the usual feeding foot carrying bar 25. In order to rotate the cylinder 11, there is secured thereupon a bevel-gear 26 in mesh with a similar gear 27 upon the forward end of a feed-direction determining shaft 28 suitably journa-led in the overhanging arm of the machine. At its rearward end the shaft 28 is geared to the upper end of a vertical shaft 29 of which the opposite end is geared in like manner to a sleeve 30 journaled for rotation in but held against endwise movement by bearings provided below the cloth-plate 1. Splined to the sleeve 30 for reciprocatory movement therein and rotary movement therewith is a looper-actuating shaft 31, carrying at itsforward end a looper-actuating spiral 32 and suitably connected at its opposite end with a lever 33 fulcrumed upon a lug 3 1 depending from the cloth-plate 1. The lever 33 is rocked by means of a pitman 35 having a strap embracing an eccentric 36 secured upon the shaft 8. If desired, the sleeve 30 may be operatively connected with a hand-crank 37 as in machines of prior construction, whereby when the automatic controlling mechanism hereinafter referred to is thrown out of action, the direction of feed may be manually controlled heretofore.

t will be understood that as usual the reciprocations of the looper-shaft 31 from the eccentric 36 cause the operation of the usual looper (not shown) to coact with the needle in the formation of stitches, while the rotation of the loopenshaft 31 maintains the tim ing of action of the looper necessary to coactwith the needle the latter rotates in accordance with the change in the direction of ice the

feed under the controlling action of the shaft 28. This portion of the mechanism remains substantially as in machines of prior construction.

The needle and feed-actuating shaft 8 is not permanently secured to the pulley-shaft 5 but may be coupled thereto and uncoupled therefrom by means of a stop-motion device of well known construction. This device comprises essentially a collar 38 loosely journaled upon the shaft 8, said collar being provided with a cam-groove 39 and a couplingpin 40.

The coupling pin 40 is slidingly disposed in an aperture 40 provided in the eccentric 36 which is fast on the shaft 8 whereby the collar 38 is caused to rotate with the shaft 8. Under the action of a spring 41, the collar 36 is urged to cause the pin 40 to enter a suitable aperture 109 in a driving bevel-gear 109 secured for rotation with the pulleyshaft 5 and when said pin 40 is seated in the aperture 109*, it is evident that the shaft 8 is coupled to the shaft 5 for rotation therewith. The pin 40 is however normally held out of engagement with the bevel-gear 109, but within the eccentric aperture 40 by means of a shift-lever 42 carrying at its up per end a roller 43 engaging the cam-groove 39. The shift-lever 42 is fulcrumed by means of a pivotscrew 44 upon a block 45 suitably secured upon the bracket-arm standard 2. At its lower end the shift-lever 42 is adapted to be engaged by the nose 46 of the usual shiftlever controlling slide 47 guided for vertical movement in a slideway provided in the block 45 and normally urged upwardly by means of a spring 48 to engage the lever 42. It will be understood that engagement of the nose 46 with the lever 42 prevents vibration of the latter under the action of the cam-groove 39 and consequently this engagement in the coupled relationship of the shifts 5 and 8 causes the collar 38 to be forced lateraly against the pressure of the spring 41 until the pin 40 is disengaged from the bevel-gear 109, whereby rotation of the shaft 8 ceases at a point predetermined by a spring-pressed plunger 49 seated in the block 45 and engaging a suitable stop-notch provided in the collar 88. In the manually controlled machines it has long been common to depress the slide 4'? to start rotation of the shaft 8 by means of a lever in place of the hand-crank 87, the latter when embodied in the present machine being free to rotate under the compelling action of the automatic control. This automatic control is derived from a pattern-cam 51 provided on its rear face with a cam-groove 52 entered by a cam-roller 53 carried by a lateral arm 54 of a vibratory segment-lever 55. The forward end of the lever 55 is forked to provide the spaced arms, as 56, embracing the bracket-arm 3 and pivotally secured upon opposite sides thereof by means of pintles, as 57, suitably secured upon said arms 56. At its opposite end the lever 55 is provided with a segmental rack 58 engaging a pinion 59, loosely ournalcd upon the feed-direction determining shaft 28 and provided with laterally projecting clutch-teeth 60. The clutch-teeth 60 are adapted to engage similar teeth formed on a collar 61 suitably secured upon the shaft 28 for rotation therewith, the driving engagement between the collar 61 and the pinion 59 being normally maintained by means of a coil-spring 62 interposed between a collar 63 on the shaft 28 and a shouldered sleeve 64 secured upon the pinion 59. When it is desired to rotate the cylinder 11 to change the direction of feed independently of the automatic control therefor, the pinion 59 may be shifted out of driv ing engagement with the collar 61 and to this end a shoulder 65 of the sleeve 64 is adapted to be engaged by a cra11h-pin 66 upon the end of a spindle 67, suitably journaled in the bracket-arm 3 and carrying an operating hand-lever 67*.

The pattern-cam 51 is loosely journaled upon a blind-axle 68 disposed transversely of the shaft 8 and secured in an apertured boss 69 of a bracket '50 secured by screws 71- upon the rear side of the overhanging arm 8. A shoulder 72 upon the axle 68 abuts against one face of the boss 69 and is held thereagainst by means of a nut 73 threaded upon the projecting end of the axle. Also loosely journaled upon the blind-axle is a ratchet-wheel 7 4 secured to the pattern-cam 51 by means of screws 75 and a positioning pin 7 6. The ratchet-wheel 74 is yieldingly forced against a shoulder 77 upon the axle 68 by means of a three-prong friction-spring T8 bearing against the front face of the patterncam with an adjustable pressure determined by a nut 79 threaded upon the front reduced end of the axle 68.

Journaled upon the enlarged portion of the blind-axle 68 between the shoulders 7'2 and 77 is the hub 80 of a two-armed pawlactuating lever upon one arm 81 of which is pivotally secured a pawl. 82 yieldingly maintained in engagement with the teeth 83 of the ratchet-wheel 7 4 by means of a flat spring 84 suitably secured upon the arm 81 and overlying a lug 85 projecting from the pawl on the opposite side of its pivotal point.

The other arm 86 of the pawl-actuating lever 81, 86, has a ball-and-socket connection with one end of a pitman 87 of which the opposite end is provided with a strap 88 embracing an adjustable eccentric 89 having an elongated shaft-aperture 90. The eccentric 89 provided with a flange 91 supporting the eccentric-strap 88 and upon its upper surface said. eccentric is formed with a transverse guiderib 92 slidingly fitted in a transverse grooved guideway 93 provided in the lower surface of an eccentric-securing disk or member 9 1. The disk 94 is provided with a hub 95 secured by means of a set-screw 96 upon the upper end of a short vertical shaft 97 journalcd in a flanged bearing sleeve 98 of which the flange 99 is secured by screws as 100 upon the bracket-arm 3. In its secured position, the disk 9 1 rests upon the shaft bearing 98 and together with the flange 91 confines the strap 88 to its eccentric embracing position.

The elongated aperture 90 alijords means permitting the eccentric 89 to be adjusted relative to the shaft 97 and in the present instance to be adjusted into positions of predetermined degrees of eccentricity. To this end, the disk 94 is provided with elongated apertures 101 entered by securing screws as 102 threaded into apertures 103 in the eccentric. parallel with the similar aperture 90, it is apparent that by slightly loosening the screws 102 the eccentric 89 may be readily shifted in a right-line in the guideway 93, as for instance by bearing upon the pitman 87. The positions into which the eccentric is shifted are predetermined primarily for the purpose of accommodating the throw of the pawl 82 to the size of teeth of the ratchet-wheel 7 1, the latter being interchangeable with different teeth-size ratchet-wheels whereby the size of the embroidery figure may be altered. To this end, the disk 94 is provided with a pinrality of apertures 104; which are disposed eccentric to the axis of the shaft 97 while a number of apertures 106 in the eccentric 89. are disposed substantially concentric to the periphery of the eccentric. Each of the apertures 104 may be brought into alinement with a corresponding aperture 106 by adjusting the eccentric 89 as described, but no two apertures 10-it are SlHlllltflllQOllSlY in alinement with two apertures 106. By dropping a positioning pin 10? into alined apertures 10%, 106 and tightening the screws 102 the eccentric 89 is positioned to effect a predetermined throw of the pawl 82, the apertures 104i and the ratchet-wheels 74 being preferably correspondingly labeled, whereby the correct throw may be instantly obtained for the ratchet-wheel selected.

In order to rotate the eccentric 89, the shaft 97 carries a bevel-gear 108 in mesh with the driving gear 109. By driving the pat- As the elongated apertures 101 are tern-cam from the pulley-shaft 5 which is capable of being rotated independently of the needle and feed-actuating shaft 8, the feeddirection control is effective Whether or not stitches are being formed or the Work ad vanced by the feeding-foot.

Automatic means are also provided to both start and stop the operation of the stitchforming and feed-actuating mechanisms during the continuous automatic feed-direction control. To this end the pattern-cam 51 is peripherally provided with spaced series of spaced threaded apertures 110 and 111, the apertures of each series being in substanti al circumferential alinen'ient. Selectively threaded into certain of the apertures 110 are adjustable stop-elements in the form of headed screw-studs 112 and threaded in like manner into the apertures 111 are adjustable start-elen'ients in the form of headed screwstuds 113. The paths of movement of both the stop and start screw-studs 112 and 113 intersect a cam-block 114; having, on a flatface 115 thereof, the inclined block-deflecting cani-surfaces 116 and 117, both terminating in a central screw-clearance groove 118. The cam-block 114i is adjustably secured by means of a screw 119 and an elongated slot 120 upon a lateral arm 121 fixed upon a rock-shaft 122. The rock-shaft 122 is j ournaled in a bearing ru'ovided in a lug 123 and a boss 12 1 formed in a detachable cover-plate 125 secured by screws as 126 (only one of which is shown) entering threaded apertures 12? provided on the machine standard 3.

The rock-shaft 122 is preferably not directly j ournaled in its hearing, but is inserted in a rocking sleeve 128 and secured therein by means of a setscrew 129 threaded into a flange 130 of said sleeve. At its inner end there is secured upon the sleeve 128, by means of a set-screw 131, the hub of a tappet 132 positioned to engage the upper end of a stopbar 133 fastened by screws as 13 upon the usual slide 4LT. Endwise movement of the sleeve 128 in its bearing. is prevented by the flange 130 and the hub of the tappet 132 respectively engaging the boss 12 1 and the lug 123. The shaft 122 is endwise adjustable in the sleeve 128 to permit repositioning of the arm 121 and the block 11% for different sizes of pattern-cams. To this end, said shaft 122 is provided longitudinally thereof with a V- shaped groove 135 entered by the pointed end of a positioning screw 13G, whereby relative rotation between the shaft 122 and the sleeve 128 is prevented when the set-screw 129 is loosened to permit of the adjustment. By this means the ai'igular relationship between the arm 121 and the tappet 132 is maintained regardless of the adjusted position of the block 114. In. order to maintain the arm 121 in the stop and start positions determined by the elements 112 and 113, the rocking sleeve 128 is suitably frictioned. In the present in stance the necessary friction is obtained by inserting a friction-plug 137 of leather or other suitable material into a threaded aperture 138 provided in the lug 123 and forcing said plug to engage the sleeve 128 with an adjustable pressure determined by a set-screw 139 locked in position by a similar screw 140. To prevent overthrow of the tappet 132 under the combined action of the start-element 113 and spring 48 there is provided a stop-screw 141 threaded into the covenplate 125 and adjustably secured thereupon by means of a lock-nut 142.

In the operation of the machine, the pulleyshaft 5 is continuously rotated, thereby continuously driving the eccentric 89 and pawl 82 whereupon the pattern-cam 51 is advanced step-by-step to continuously control the feeddirection through the vibrating lever 55 actin upon the pinion 59 in the normal clutched position of the latter upon the usual feeddirection determining shaft 28. The pattern cam 51 is designed to so control the direction of feed as to produce a predetermined embroidery figure in the absence of any stopmotion control, i. e., during the continued operation of the stitch-forming and feedactuating mechanisms. The pattern-cam 51 is of course readily interchangeable with others for effecting different predetermined designs and likewise the ratchet-wheel 7 4 may be readily removed and others substituted therefor whereby the feed-direction changes may have a greater or less speed-ratio with respect to definite work-advancing movements of the feeding foot. Should the stitch-forming and feed-actuating mechanisms be intermittently started and stopped while the feeddirection is under the continuous control of the pattern-cam, certain portions of the embroidery figure for which the pattern-cam is designed will be omitted and while the resulting embroidery figure will be of a continuous design, its contour or outline will vary considerably from that of the original design. Furthermore, other variations may be obtained by changing the stopping and starting times of the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms with respect to the feed-direction control, whereby a very large variety of embroidery figures may be produced automatically from each pattern-cam.

In the present machine, as previously described herein, this intermittent operation of the stitch-forming and feed-actuating mecha nisms is automatically controlled from the pattern-cam 51 by reason of the action of the screw-studs 112 and 113 upon the cam-block carrying arm 121. The pattern-cam 51 is advanced in the direction of the arrow shown in Fig. 1 causing a start screw-stud 113 to engage the inclined cam-surface 117 whereby the arm 121 is rocked rearwardly in the direction away from the operator. This causes the tappet 132 to engage the upper end of the bar 133 and depress the nose 46 of the slide 47, whereupon the spring 41 is free to shift the collar 38 to couple the shafts 5 and 8, the shift-lever 42 being now free to vibrate. This brings the needle and feed-actuating mechanisms into operation. The stop screw-studs 112 alternate with the start-studs 113 and consequently after a predetermined number of stitches have been completed, a stop-stud 112 engages the inclined cam-surface 116 to swing the arm 121 towards the operator. This raises the tappet 132 to permit the spring 48 to shift the nose 46 into the path of movement of the shift-lever 42, restraining the latter from vibration whereby the collar 38 is shifted to disengage the coupling-pin 40 from the bevelear 109. Consequently, the stitchforming and feed-actuating mechanisms, which are directly brought into operation by the shaft 8 will be intermittently started and stopped, with the feed-direction shaft 28 under the continuous control of the pattern-cam. 'lherefore, while a continuous seam is being formed, it is formed intermittently and certain portions of the original design will be omitted, the omitted portions being selective by the repositioning of the stop and start studs 112, 1 13 upon the periphery of the pattern-cam. By means of a suitable index system the desired design may evidently be readily predetermined.

It may be necessary or desirable to at times change the direction of production of the embroidery design as for instance when approaching the edge of the garment or when a definite form is being produced, in which case the pinion 59 is unclutched from the shaft 28 by manipulation of the hand-lever 67 whereupon the cylinder 11 is free to be rotated to obtain the desired direction. Fig. 15 for instance illustrates a change at rightangles of the direction of production of the design.

A few embroidery designs are outlined in 11 to 14 inclusive, which may be produced by means of a patter-cam having a cam-groove of the configuration illustrated for instance in Fig. 1. It will be observed that the corners a are rounded in Fig. 11, this being the design produced in the absence of any stop-motion control, i. e., the design predetermined by the pattern cam per se. It will be apparent that it would be extremely difficult, if not impracticable, to provide a pattern-cam cam-groove sufiiciently sharp to directly produce a right-angled corner in an embroidery design by merely controlling the direction of feed. The same efi'ect is produced however by the present machine by stopping the stitch-forming and work-advancing mechanisms to omit the round corner stitches of F 11 and automatically restarting the stitch-forming and work-advancing mechanisms at a predetermined period in which the direction of feed is at right anglesto the previous direction, whereby an embroidery design having the outline of Fig. 12 is produced.

In case it is desired to n'laintain the outline of the cesign shown in Fig. 12 with a less number of stitches of the same length to effect the similar but smaller outline of Fig. 13, it is merely necessary to change the speed ratio between the feed-direction control and thework-advancing movements of the feeding foot. In "the present instance this is accomplished by an adjustment of the eccentric 89 and preferably also by the substitution of a different toothed ratchet-wheel for that previously employed. To produce the outline shown in Fig. 1.4-, the same throw of the eccentric 89 may be employed as is used for producing the design of Fig. 12 but the stop-studs 112 are repositioned in the apertures 110 to omit a portion of the design, as

i will be apparent.

In Figs. 16, 18, 19 and 20 are illustrated a few designs capable of being produced by a pattern-cam of which the cam-groove has a different configuration from that shown in Fig. 1 and which is designed to ynoduce the embroidery outline of Pg. 16 in the absence of any stop-motion control. To produce the outlines of Figs. 18, 19 and 20 the startand stop-studs 1.12 and 113 are both repositioned, but if thcdesign of any one of these figures is to be maintained in larger or smaller outline, i. e., with a dilferent number of stitches of the same length, the throw of the eccentric S9 is correspondiugly altered. Fig. 17 illustrates a still further design which may be automatically reproduced without the employment of any stop-motion control from a pattern-can'i having the necessary cam-groove configuration. By the proper repositioning of the stop-motion controlling elements, the portion forinstance between the lines 5, Z) and c, 0 may be omitted to produce substantially the design of Fig. 16.

It is to he uiulerstood that the embroidery designs illustrated are only a few of those capable of being made from each patterncam andv that the variety of designs which may be produced is almost endless, each of which may l'iowever be predetermined by a suitable index system setting forth the positions of the startand stop-studs 112 and 113 and the throw of the eccentric 89. The disconnectible feature of the pinion 59 under the action of the lever 67* is of some importance as it permits changing the direction of production of the embroidery design without requiring the turning of the work itself. The advanl ge of this feature will he apparent when it is considered that without it, large pieces of work such as table-cloths would have to be turned about the stitching point to obtain the desired new direction. Fig. 15 as previously stated illustrates the producing the formation of a seam of continuous stitches to automatically stop and automatically restart the operation of said stitch-forming. and feed-actuating mechanisms subsequently to the formation of the initial stitch of said seam of continuous stitches.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feed-actuating mechanisms, of intermittently effective mechanism for automatically starting and stopping the operation of said stitch-forming and feed-actuating mechanisms at predetermined intervals in the formation of a seam of continuous stitches.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feed-actuating mechanisms, of intermittently effective controlling mechanism for automatically starting and stopping the operation of said stitch-forming and feed-actuating mechanisms at predetermined intervals in the formation of a seam of continuous stitches, and means permitting selective predetermination of the times of effective action of said controlling mechanism.

4. In a universal-feed'sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feed actuating mechanisms, of continuously effective automatic feed-direction controlling means, and mechanism for automatically starting and stopping the operation of said stitch-forming and feed-actuating mechanisms during the effective action of said controlling means.

5. In a universal-feed sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feedactuating mechanisms, of mechanism for automatically stopping the operation of said stitch-forming mechanism, and feed-direction controlling meansautomatically operative independently of the operation of said stitch-forming mechanism.

6. In a universal-feed sewing machine, the

combination with stitch-forming and feedactuating mechanisms, of mechanism for automatically stopping the operation of said feed-actuating mechanism, and feed-direction controlling means automatically operative in dependently of the operation of said feedactuating mechanism.

7. In a universal-feed embroidering machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feed-actuating mechanisms, of a patterncam for automatically determining the direction of feed, intermittently effective controlling-mechanism for automatically starting and stopping the operation of said stitch forming and feed-actuating mechanisms, and

means permitting selective predetermination of the times of effective action of said eontrolling mechanism.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatory needle, and feeding mechanism for advancing the Work past said needle, o1". automatically operative feed-direction controlling means ior causing said stitch-torn ing and feed-actuating mechanisms to produce repetitions of a predetermined embroidery design in a seam or" continuous stitches, and automatically acting mechanism for at intervals discontinuing the operation of both the stitcl'i-forn'iing and feeding mechanisms during the effective operation of said feed-direction controlling means whereby to omit a predetermined portion of said design in a seam of continuous stitches.

9. In a universal-teed emi'iroidering machine, the combination with stitchotorming and feed-actuating mechanisms, of means for automatically controlling the direction oi feed to effect a predetern'iined embroidery de sign in repeti on in a continuous seam, and a disconnecting device n'initting changii the direction of production oi said seam at will.

10. In an embroide ting machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms ijor producing a predetermined embroidering design, of means for automatic lly controlling the eil ective action of said mechanisms to emit a predetermined pow tion of said dcsi in a continuous seam, and means for at will changing the direction oi production of said seam.

11. In a universal-feed embroidering machine, the combination with stitell/forming and feed-actuating mccl'ianisms, oi controlling means operatively onnected with said feed-actuating mechani n for anton'iai'iically determining the direction or feed, and a throw-out device for said controlling means permitting manual control of the direction of teed.

12. In a universal-feed embroidering machine, in contibination stitch-forming mechanism, feed-actuating mechanism for advancing the Work a predetermined stitch-length, automatic teal-direction controlling mechanism operatively connected with said 66lactuating mechanism for eii'ectin g a predetermined embroidery desgn, and adjustable means for effecting a predetermined change in size of the embroidery ilesign While maintaining the same stitch-length.

13. In. a uni cereal-feed embroidering machine, in con'ibination, stitch-forming mechanism, teed-actuating mechanism 'for advancing the Work, a pattern-cam for :mtomatically controliing the direction of feed to effect a predetern'iined en'ih'oidcry design, pattern-cam act rutting mechanism, and means for varying the effective action of said pattern-cam actuating mechanism to effect a predetermined change in size oi the embroidery design.

14. vin a universal-feed embroidering machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, teed-actuating mechanism for advancing the Work, a pattern-cam for automatically co trolling the direction of feed to eflect a predetermined embroidery design, "ttern-cam actuating .means including a roary eccentric, and means for varying the eccentri city of said eccentric a predetermincd extent to eltect a change in size of the en1- broidery design.

15. in an automatic embroidering machine, in combination, stitchdorming mechanisn'i, feeding mechanism, automatic controiling means comprising a pattern-cam, and pattern-cam act ating means including a rotary eccentric, a rotary si'iai't, member rarried by said shaft upon which said eccentric secured, and means permitting a relative predetermined degree of adjustment between said eccentric and member to obtain a definite degree of eccentricity of said eccentric With respect to the said shaft Whereby the speed. of niioveincnt o i said pattern-cam may be predetermined.

16. In an automatic embroidering ma chine, in combination, stitchd orming mechanism, feeding mechanism, automatic controlling means comprising a pattern-cam, an d pattern-cam actuating means including a rotarv eccentric, a rotary shaft, a member carried by said shaft upon which said orcentric is secured, means permitting relative adjust-- ment in a right line between said member and eccentric, and means for determining a plurality oi adjusted positions of said eccentric With respect to said member whereby to predetern'iine the speed of movement of said pattern-cam.

17. In a univei al-ieed emiiiroidering machine, the combi ion with stitciniin'ming mechanism, feed-actuating mechanism 'ior advancing the work past said stitch-forming mechanism, and a teed-direction determining shaft, of automatic controliing means for said feed-direction determining shaft comprising a,patterncam, pattern-cam actuating means, a vibratory lever actuated by said pattern-cam, a rack carried by said lover, a pinion loosely journaled upon the feed-direction determining shaft, and a clutch-device whereby said pinion and shaft may be at will connected and disconnected.

18. In a universal-feed embroidering machine, the combination With stitehaforming mechanism, and feet-actuating mechanism for advancing the Work past said stitchtorming mechanism, of automatic feed-direction controlling means comprising a patterncam, actuating means for rotating said pattern-cam, and means for determining both the action and inaction of said stitch-forming of a controlling cam, means for actuating said cam, a plurality of start and stop elements selectively disposed upon the periphery of said. cam, and operative connections controlled by said start and stop elements for. both starting and stopping the stitchiiorming and itccdactuating mechanisms in the formation of a continuous seam.

20. in a sewing machine, the combination chine, the combination with stitch-forming and feedactuating mechanisms, of a patterncam, means for actuating said cam, operative connections for controlling the direction of feed from said cam, a plurality of: start and stop elements adjustably disposed upon said. cam, and. operative connections for both starting and stopping the operation. of said stitch-forming and feed-actuating mechanisms under the controlling action of said elements.

22. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feed-actuating mechanisms, of a controlling-cam, means for actuating said. cam, a plurality of start and stop-elements disposed upon said cam, a rock-arm provided with a plurality of camsurfaces disposed in the path oi? movement of said elements, a stop-motion device, and operative connections between the rock-arm and said stop-motion device to intermittently start and stop the operation of said. mechanisms under the action of said elements.

23. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feed-actuating mechanisms, of a controlling cam, means for actuating said cam, a plurality of start and stop-elements disposed upon said cam, a rockarm provided with a plurality of cam-surfaces disposed in the path of movement of said elements, a stop-motion device, operative connections between the rook-arm and said stop-motion device to intermittently start and stop the operation of said mechanisms under the action of said elements, and means for determining the direction of feed from said controlling-cam.

24. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feed-actuating mechanisms, of a controlling cam, means for actuating said cam, a plurality of spaced start and stop elements adjustably disposed in spaced paths upon said cam, operative con- 

